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Perfume was first used by the Egyptians as
part of their religious rituals. The two principal methods of use at this
time was the burning of incense and the application of balms and ointments.
Perfumed oils were applied to the skin for either cosmetic or medicinal
purposes. During the Old and Middle Kingdoms, perfumes were reserved
exclusively for religious rituals such as cleansing ceremonies. Then during
the New Kingdom (1580-1085 BC) they were used during festivals and Egyptian
women also used perfumed creams and oils as toiletries are
cosmetics and as preludes to love-making. The use of perfume then spread
to Greece, Rome, and the Islamic world. And it was the Islamic community
that kept the use of perfumes since the spread of Christianity led to a decline
in the use of perfume. With the fall of the Roman Empire, perfume's
influence dwindled. It was not until the twelfth century and the development
of international trade that this decline was reversed.
Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves
became popular in France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers
was established. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. The court of
Louis XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents which were
applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture.
The eighteenth century saw a revolutionary advance in perfumery with the
invention of eau de Cologne. This refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli,
bergamot and lemon was used in a multitude of different ways: diluted in
bath water, mixed with
wine, eaten on a sugar lump, as a mouthwash, an enema or an ingredient
for a poultice, injected directly... and so on. The variety of
eighteenth-century perfume containers was as wide as that of the fragrances
and their uses. Sponges soaked in scented vinaigres de toilette were kept in
gilded metal vinaigrettes. Liquid perfumes came in beautiful Louis XIV-style
pear-shaped bottles. Glass became increasingly popular, particularly in
France with the opening of the Baccarat factory in 1765.
As with industry and the arts, perfume was to undergo profound change in the
nineteenth century. Changing tastes and the development of modern chemistry
laid the foundations of perfumery as we know it today. Alchemy gave way to
chemistry and new fragrances were created. The French Revolution had in no
way diminished the taste for perfume, there was even a fragrance called "Parfum
a la Guillotine." Under the post-revolutionary government, people once again
dared to express a penchant for luxury goods, including perfume. A profusion
of vanity boxes containing perfumes appeared in the 19th century. This
picture shows a woman at her dressing table.
Due to its jasmine, rose and orange-growing trades, the town of Grasse in
Provence established itself as the largest production center for raw
materials. The statutes of the perfume-makers of Grasse were passed in 1724.
Paris became the commercial counterpart to Grasse and the world center
of perfume. Perfume houses such as Houbigant (produces Quelques Fleurs,
still very popular today), Lubin, Roger & Gallet, and Guerlain were all
based in Paris.
Soon bottling became more important. Perfume maker Francois Coty formed a
partnership with Rene Lalique. Lalique then produced bottles for Guerlain,
D'Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet and others. Baccarat then joined
in, producing the bottle for Mitsouko (Guerlain), Shalimar (Guerlain) and
others. Brosse glassworks created the memorable bottle for Jeanne Lanvin's
Arpege, and the famous Chanel No.5.
1921- Couturier Gabrielle Chanel launches her own brand of perfume, created
by Ernest Beaux, she calls it Chanel No.5 because it was the fifth in a line
of fragrances Ernest Be...
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